Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Crazy Jerusalem Pharmacies


I don't have a lot of time, so there's just one hilarious story I want to recount. Today Josh and I went to the pharmacy, and I just happened to be wearing an outfit that could pass for Orthodox (skirt past my knees, long-sleeve shirt), while Josh was wearing a kippah. So I ask the pharmacist for Sudafed, and she gives it to me and starts telling me about side effects. Keeps you awake, don't take it with alcohol, etc. Then she says, "Is the Sudafed for you?" And I say yes. And then she says, "You know, I'm not sure if you can take this while you're pregnant." And I'm like, oh my God, have I gotten so fat that this lady thinks I'm pregnant?! And then I realized that Josh and I looked like an Orthodox couple, so it made sense for her to assume that we were trying to have kids, and that I might be pregnant at any moment. It's really a different world here. 

Ok, now for the pictures. Here's some Haredi people at the Kotel: 

Here's Josh in the process of making something very yummy, as usual:

I almost feel bad about exploiting this feeble old lady for my photography. Almost, because this is such a cool shot. 

Aaaaand, more Haredi people at the Kotel. There's a lot of them, ya know?

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Bulldozer Deja Vu

Backstory:
Three weeks ago (when we first arrived) there was an Israeli Arab construction worker who ran his bulldozer into a bunch of cars and buses on Jaffo street. Killed some people, hurt some people, scared everyone. It was also a big deal because he was an Israeli citizen, and there was a huge controversy about whether or not to demolish his house. And it was the second time an Israeli citizen perpetrated an attack in Jerusalem. (The first was the attack on the yeshiva in May.) So enough backstory.

Today (an hour and a half ago) there was a copycat attack. It was really close to HUC - on the same street, about a block away, in front of the King David Hotel, where Obama is going to be staying tonight. Anyway, so Josh and I get these texts asking us to confirm that we're ok, and we start hearing sirens. Of course, that's because we can actually see the King David Hotel from our kitchen window. Like so:

So that's a little scary, but seriously cool. We've been hearing sirens ever since, and now there are helicopters circling our neighborhood looking for the two suspects. Observe the helicopter directly overhead, as seen from our kitchen window:
So you might say life is interesting here. Of course, everyone adapts differently to living in a stressful environment. Not that it's that stressful; it's just high energy. But anyway, my adaptation mechanism is to think of living in Jerusalem as an adventure and get all excited about it. So I do things like run to the window to get photos of the helicopter. I think that's pretty functional, don't you?

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Party Time in Jerusalem!

Though there have definitely been some early mornings over here, Mirah and I have certainly found time to go out and enjoy the nightlife of Jerusalem. Aside from some great house parties thrown by other students at HUC, the best night out was clearly the one we spent at the Jerusalem Wine Festival. Held in a garden at the Israel Museum, it must have featured wine from over 50 vineyards. Thankfully, Israeli wine has improved substantially since the days that Yarden and a few other labels ruled the scene. Even the Kosher wine – notorious for its mandatory boiling process – was actually kind to our taste buds. With a live band in the background, a cool night out, and a great view of the city below, it was something else.After a couple of hours sampling the best wines in the country, we headed back to the center of town for some coffee and a light meal to wash down the wine. The only hysterical part was that, en route to the coffee shop, someone demonstrated a major point from our Student Health Educator (SHE) skits from Amherst: do not tell embarrassing stories about yourself in a party situation, since you may not be able to gauge how embarrassing the story really is until it’s too late. Thankfully, that person was neither Mirah nor myself. However, we look forward to cracking the periodic joke – hopefully just between the two of us, to be nice – since the legend of “Pampers” from the SHE skits lives on.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Wedding Photos Up!

We got an email from our wedding photographer saying that our photos are up in an online album. They're so gorgeous! Check 'em out: 

The website is www.pictage.com/510402, and you have to sign in with the event key mj061508. 

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Real Life, Day 1

Today is the first day of HUC orientation, which means that this was the first - but not the last - day we had to get up at 7:30. Ugh. And to make it worse, I barely slept last night. It felt like I'd had too much caffeine, but I hadn't had any at all. Weird. Oh well, hopefully tonight I'll sleep. I just feel bad because I kept Josh up too. Well, let's hope I can still think by the time I go to my ulpan class tonight. Yeah, it started on Monday. I should be in aleph plus (between aleph and bet), but there weren't enough students for an aleph plus class. So they gave me a choice between retaking aleph and jumping up to bet. I just couldn't bear learning the alphabet again, so I took bet. It's hard, but not impossible. I feel like I did the first few weeks in my advanced French class in Strasbourg. I'm behind (I don't know past tense), but I'm not the bottom of the class, and I know I can pick up languages pretty well. So it's going to be a tough few weeks, but that's a good thing. I'd rather be challenged than bored, especially because I'm not doing much else this summer. 

So this morning (actual morning, for once) I went to the shuk. Today I made it through the whole trip without anyone realizing I wasn't Israeli and flipping into English. Given, all I was saying was "how much?" "thank you," "please," and "excuse me." But hey, it's a start. It also means I was understanding the grocers when they told me prices. The shuk is great for learning numbers. Anyway, I also took a bunch of pictures. People looked at me funny though. Oh well, I guess that always happens to photographers. But here are some pics: 

These are the distinctive spice sacks. Though I can't yet buy them because they're all labelled in Hebrew. I'm working up to it.

The fish market, where I don't shop because I don't know how to gut and cook a whole fish. I love this picture because of the guys' faces. The one on the right is giving me "sexy eyes." It just cracks me up that I caught him on camera flirting with me from behind a smelly fish counter. 

And here is a close-up of the yummiest thing in the world: rugelach! 
And this is just cool. Check out the hanging grapes. 

Ok, now that I've reported on my day so far, I have to do my obligatory musing on something irrelevant. And today it's superheroes, or more precisely super-heroines. Why is it that the men get the aggressive powers and the women get the defensive ones? I mean, men get to have super strength and fire and cool stuff like that, and women get to be mind-readers and invisible and shape-shifters and stuff. I mean, look at X-Men. Wolverine has the badass claws and Cyclops gets to shoot fire out of his eyes and Magneto can shoot bullets with his mind. Then look at the women. Rogue's power is totally derivative, Mystique can change her appearance, and Storm is totally helpless unless she's outside. And in The Incredibles (which is really just an amalgam of a bunch of different superhero shows) the male-female division in the family is pretty obvious. Mr. Incredible is strong, Dash is fast, and Jack-Jack has the whole demon baby thing going on. And the women? Elastigirl's power is literally being flexible, and Violet can be invisible or make force fields - totally defensive powers. Now how is that fair? 

~Mirah

Saturday, July 12, 2008

French Toast of Massive Proportions

First, as promised, some pictures of our apartment. 

Here's our marvelous, big, light-filled kitchen. 

And here's our bedroom, complete with an email-checking Josh. The bed is really two mattresses on a really creaky frame, but we're working on the creaking part. Josh has this whole plan to prop up the middle of the bed so it doesn't sag... I hope it works, because it's really freakin' annoying. 

Next, observe Josh demonstrating that we do, in fact, eat real meals. That is, non-instant food that we cook ourselves and eat sitting down at the table on real china. This one is an Indian eggplant dish from a recipe we found online. It's a pretty awesome website, actually. It's called Ashbury's Aubergines, and it's got about a million and a half eggplant recipes, organized by ingredients and cuisines. Check it out! 


The really cool thing that we did today was have ten people over for brunch. We had a whole loaf of challah and three dozen eggs (I kid you not) so we decided we needed to do French toast. So last night after services we invited over a bunch of people for French toast brunch. We didn't get to invite everyone we wanted to, and as it was we ran out of chairs, but it was still really really fun. It was also a momentous occasion, because it was the first time Josh and I really entertained as a married couple. I mean, we had someone over for pita and hummus lunch, but that doesn't really count. 

Anyway, so we extended the dining room table and put out extra chairs last night, and then this morning all we had to do was cook. I made a fruit salad and Josh made home fries, and then we waited for everyone to get here and started French toasting! By the end, people were refusing more food, which means we succeeded in feeding them enough. You know, it's bad when guests go home hungry. Anyway, I think everyone had fun. Yay! 

Last night we had Shabbat evening services at HUC, out on the lawn overlooking the Old City. It was a pretty fabulous place for services. I got there late, but Josh had saved me a seat and I didn't miss much. It was a very beautiful service, and it was sort of overwhelming to have it there. Much more moving than actually being at the Kotel. When we went with the HUC tour earlier this week, it was very discouraging. I apparently didn't cover my shoulders enough, and I got scolded by the mean Orthodox lady who made me wear one of those stupid shawls. (Given, it was my fault because I should have brought something more modest to wear. But still.) And then I went with Lisa and Leslie to get a red string with a hamsa, and ended up getting cursed at by the lady I gave a shekel to. Ugh. I just really hate going to someplace that should be holy and moving, and getting reminded of everything bad abut religion when I was looking for the good parts. 

On that note, during services last night I was thinking about the phrase we say immediately before the Amidah: "Adonai, open my lips that my mouth may declare your glory." And it occurred to me that it bears a huge resemblance to the opening phrase of the Odyssey: "Sing in me, O muse, and through me tell the story..." Like the invocation to the muse, that phrase is a request for the inspiration to create the art or perform the great deeds that will bring beauty into the world. Because, when you take a less literal interpretation of what God is, bringing glory to God can easily be seen as simply enhancing the good in the world. So when we say that phrase, what we are doing is asking for the ability to do things that will make the world a better place. 

I should really go through and try to do this with other prayers. I'm always pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to interpret the entire Jewish liturgy as a quasi-humanist celebration of the human potential for good and a charge to do more of it. 

Anyway, I'm out of time. 

Peace,

Mirah

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Jerusalem

Sorry for the lack of updates for a while. It appears that the Venetians, while some of the wealthiest people in the world, have yet to understand the concept of wireless internet. They jet around in their billion-dollar yachts, and yet there is not a wireless hotspot in all of Venice. Grrr.

Anyway, I’ll put up some pictures from Venice later. It’s somewhat frustrating to upload to both here and facebook with stolen intermittent wireless from the old orthodox people next door. We’re going to get our own ethernet and then use the wireless router we already have, but we haven’t gotten around to it yet.

We arrived on Sunday and moved into our apartment immediately. Our landlady is this adorable old French woman, very much like my host mom in Strasbourg. We arrived early in the morning (like 6:00) and we didn’t want to wake her, so we hung around the little convenience store in the building for an hour. Meanwhile, the guy who runs the store gave us coffee and little cakes while we were waiting. Then we went up to Mme Cohen’s apartment, where she promptly scolded us for not coming up sooner and made us breakfast. We were speaking to her only in French, which considering we hadn’t slept in 36 hours was pretty damn good. We were both relieved that our French was still good enough to converse like that.

Then Mme Cohen took us up to our apartment, and it’s gorgeous! Everything’s very modern, with marble countertops in the kitchen and pretty tile in all the rooms. The only drawback is that the kitchen is kosher, and the milk side is much smaller than the meat side. Apparently, vegetarianism isn’t too big in Israel. But we went out and bought some more pots and pans for the milk side, so we should be fine on the cooking front. The other thing about the apartment that wasn’t great is that the previous tenants had a cat, so everything was coated in a fine layer of cat hair. I mean, even the coffee table had little kitty footprints on it. Since I’m allergic to cats, that equals not breathing for me. So we spent the whole first morning moving furniture around and cleaning the place. But as we’re slowly washing everything in here, my allergies are getting better and better.

The other problem we’ve been having is also animal-related: mosquitoes. We left our windows open at night to keep cool, and now I have about forty bug bites all over my body. I actually look like I have chicken pox. (I wonder if I should offer to play with people’s kids for a hundred shekels an hour. Now there’s an interesting plan…) Anyway, we got one of those things that you plug into the wall and it emits some sort of bug repellent, so we should be better for the future. But ick!

Anyway, we love our apartment. It’s big and light and pretty, and it’s ours. It’s just so exciting to finally have our own home. After four years of dorms, it’s really nice to be able to live in an actual apartment. And after living in separate dorm rooms, it’s wonderful to be living together. And it turns out that we really do live together well. We split up the housework so incredibly naturally, I wouldn’t have believed it. And we’ve been having so much fun cooking together. So far we’ve done: pasta with Josh’s homemade sauce, goat cheese omelettes, and French toast. The breakfast-for-dinner thing was Josh’s idea, and I think it’s really great. Breakfast food is some of my favorite, but we never have time to actually make it in the morning. Speaking of breakfast, though, we’ve been sitting down to eat breakfast every day, which I think is really important and awesome.

We’re also slowly figuring out other things about the city, like where to go grocery shopping. We went to the shouk today with another HUC student to get fruit and vegetables and stuff. It’s a lot like the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, only smaller, and they sell food instead of carpets and stuff. But the produce is so much fresher there than at the supermarket, and it’s an adventure to shop there. The only drawback is that it’s a fifteen or twenty minute walk, which can get old after a while. But right now we’re not busy, and it’s so much fun it doesn’t matter.

After we went to the shouk, we invited Josh (Josh Knoble, the other student we went with) over for lunch. It was the first time we’ve entertained in our new home, so that was a lot of fun. Also, Josh K is a really interesting person. He’s becoming a rabbi after going to West Point and serving seven years in the army. So we were listening to him talk about his time in Iraq and Afghanistan, which was fascinating. He’s obviously really smart, and he’s got a unique outlook on a lot of things. I’m sure we’ll hang out with him more over this year.

Anyway, time to go… ha! There’s nothing I have to do! It’s a cool feeling, for right now anyway. Pretty soon I’m going to start getting antsy, but then I’ll just write and take photos and enroll in cool classes. But right now, it feels great to just be able to chill and enjoy being a newlywed in our new home.

Kisses,

Mirah